I've seen four Subalpine Warblers over the years, all of them down in Cornwall. Two were males and two were female types. Back in the day they were just Subalpine Warblers before being split into three distinct species: Western, Eastern and Moltoni's. Western (Sylvia iberiae), as it's Latin name suggests, is to be found in the summer on the Iberian peninsula and in southern France. Eastern (S. cantilans) summers in Italy and further east. Moltoni's (S. subalpina) is located in a small pocket in northern Italy and some of the Italian islands. Now my two male Cornish birds were both Westerns which meant that I still needed Eastern and Moltoni's. So when an Eastern turned up at Beachy Head and stuck around it was firmly on my radar of interest. Reports of it singing and seemingly being on territory were highly encouraging but due to a variety of things going on at Casa Gnome it wasn't until the weekend that I was going to be free to have a crack at it. Given reports of the bird showing best early in the morning, I decided on my tried and trusted tactic of heading up the previous night and AirBnB'ing it so I could be on site early after (hopefully) a good night's sleep. So it was that on Friday afternoon I hastily booked a room and then headed off after dinner on the familiar route down to Eastbourne. As I drove I thought back to past twitches here: the successful American Robin twitch back in February 2022 and the only partially successful Radde's Warbler trip in October 2022 where, in very windy conditions, I heard it but never saw it. Hopefully this trip would be fully successful - certainly reports I'd seen on-line seemed to indicate that if the bird was still there then there was a high chance of connecting.
At the AirBnB I had hoped to be up and away really early but I was awake for part of the night before falling back to sleep so in the end I wasn't out the door much before 7am. As I left, I tried to lock the house door behind me as my host had requested but the keys somehow wouldn't fit in the lock so I left them just inside and messaged my host to this effect. I had carefully chosen my AirBnB to be on the right side of the town for Beachy Head so it was only a 10 minute drive before I was parking up at the Beachy Head Visitor Centre (which was closed at this time of day). Here I tooled up and, noting the chilly wind, opted for my winter coat. As I was putting away my car keys in my zip up trouser pockets I noticed that I seemed to have the AirBnB keys in my pocket rather than my own house keys. At this point the penny dropped that I'd clearly tried to lock the AirBnB front door with my own house keys and in my sleep befuddled state had left them there! Doh! I messaged the host again saying I'd drop her keys back off in a few hours after my (hopefully) successful twitch. Then it was on with my walking boots and my bins; as it was a warbler there was no need for a scope. I was soon yomping off down the unfeasibly steep grassy chalk downland slope that lead to the top of the chalk cliffs where the bird was hopefully still located.
I arrived to find just three other birders present. Having done my usual pre trip research I had a pin drop from Bird Guides that seemed to indicate that the bird was to be seen just below the cliff top along a short path down the cliff side to a small plateau some 20 feet or so below the cliff top. The other birders were at the top of the cliff but I elected to go down the track to the plateau to view the relatively small area of scrub in front of it and one of the birders decided to come with me at this point. Fairly soon after we heard our target bird sing briefly and I had the briefest of views as it dropped into the scrub before disappearing completely. My companion turned out to be a fellow blogger and, after striking up a conversation we more or less stuck together for the duration of the trip. He had a camera so I've used some of his photos to illustrate this post - you can see his blog post here. From trip reports of previous days, these brief glimpses was probably what was to be expected in terms of the quality of views.
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| The "upper plateau" where brief glimpses of the bird were initially obtained |
| Our first (backlit) views. All bird photos courtesy of Paul Evans |
This was all the incentive we needed and we hurried down to the bottom of the cliff where I was able to get a much better idea of the topography. From here I could see that the upper plateau was actually largely made up of the tops of small trees and scrub that were growing up a steep slope that lead down to the much larger lower plateau where we now standing. Actually "plateau" is a bit of a misnomer as it was still sloping though not nearly as steep as the cliff face itself. It was a large area with some deep hollows, with lots of deep cover for a wandering warbler to happily feed in. What's more, the sun was now behind us so viewing conditions were much better. Down here, it turned out that rather than offering brief glimpses every 20 minutes or so, it was instead "porning it". We would see it every few minutes or so when it would often pose quite well, though it was constantly on the move so my companion's photographic efforts were a bit hit and miss. Happily he managed to captured it well in the end. I knew that the way the bird was moving would be no match for my clunky superzoom camera so I didn't even bother trying.
We happily followed it as it moved over a fairly large area down at the bottom, sometimes venturing as far as the lower cliff face that lead up to the upper plateau where we had been originally standing. It did rather make me wonder whether it had actually been showing well down here all along and the brief glimpses that people had obtained in previous days might have been the rare occasions when it ventured up to the top area. Who knows?
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| Down at the bottom, looking back up the cliff - the "upper plateau" is the green area just below the top white cliff. The bird roamed widely over this lower plateau area |
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| Birders who braved the scramble down were able to get excellent views |
Eventually I felt that I had had my fill and it was time to face the
scramble back up the path to the cliff top and then the endurance test
which was the long slog back up the steep grassy slope to the top of the
hill where the car was parked. I'm used to scrambling and have done a
fair bit of hill walking over the years but the grassy slope was brutal -
my thighs ached for three days afterwards!
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| On the way back up - showing the topography |
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| I found this Dingy Skipper on the way back up the cliff |
Then it was back to the Gnome mobile where I de-tooled and drove back to the AirBnB to swap over the keys. After that it was time to set the Sat Nav co-ordinates back for home. Unfortunately some horrendous traffic jams on the way home added about an hour to my journey time but as my trip had already been a success I didn't really mind. Instead I basked in the warm glow of another successful outing and another shiny new tick on my list.





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